Cashmere detection method needs to be improved, high price may not be real

Cashmere goat

"I am a cashmere goat. Every year in April and May, humans use a wire comb to comb the fluff from the body, and after some processes, separate dozens to hundreds of grams of clean fine fluff. These fine fluff are people. It is often said that cashmere and cashmere sweaters are woven from the cashmere of our cashmere goats (according to the national standard of cashmere industry, only cashmere can be called cashmere). Because rare and rare, it is called 'soft gold' in the human world. , 'Fiber Gems', I heard that a ton of cashmere can now be sold for more than 1 million yuan, and cashmere sweaters woven with several hundred grams of cashmere can be sold in the mall for several thousand dollars.

“A cold, warm cashmere sweater is so attractive in the cold winter. However, some cashmere sweaters have little to do with our cashmere goats. Some of the wool yarns used come from our relatives and sheep, and some are derived from petroleum. The technology of 'cashmere' is superb, and experts are still trying to identify the true and false.

High price does not necessarily buy real cashmere

A search on the Internet, a lot of stores selling cashmere sweaters, fashionable cashmere sweaters are the cheapest as long as 30 yuan can buy one. In some clothing markets and street shops in Hangzhou, tens of dollars or one or two hundred yuan of cashmere sweaters are also often seen. Even experienced consumers sometimes hesitate: the price of these "cashmere shirts" is really cheap, but it is soft and squeaky, like cashmere.

Even if it is expensive, there is no guarantee that it will be a pure cashmere sweater. Hebei Province Fiber Inspection Bureau once conducted a special inspection on cashmere products sold in large and medium-sized shopping malls and supermarkets in the province in 2008. 80 batches of cashmere products have a pass rate of less than 20%. The cashmere coat with a price of 3,000 yuan was detected without a little cashmere. . The products are labeled with branded products with cashmere content of 80% and 68.4%, and the measured cashmere content is 0. The cashmere content is 100%, and the measured content is only 19.9%.

In January of this year, the General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine conducted a random inspection of 109 kinds of cashmere sweater products produced by 105 enterprises in 11 provinces, autonomous regions and municipalities directly under the Central Government, and found that Beijing "Mandanmir" clipped men's V vest products, marking the cashmere content of 100%, measured The value is only 10%; the cashmere sweater produced by Huaxin Fluff Co., Ltd. of Qinghe County, Hebei Province, the fiber composition and content of the wool is 30%, the measured value of wool is only 1.5%; the Urumqi Haorong Textile Co., Ltd. "Computer male V-neck products, cashmere content is marked as 80% ± 5%, the measured value of cashmere is only 18.4%.

Online identification method is difficult to work

Lou Caiying, deputy director of the Zhejiang Textile Testing and Research Institute, said that it is really difficult for ordinary consumers to identify their own cashmere.

Ordinary consumers rely on the experience circulating on the Internet to identify cashmere sweaters, all of which are difficult to work. For example, using fire, there are many materials used to imitate cashmere. If it is a chemical fiber such as acrylic fiber, there is no burnt smell of animal hair after burning, and some cashmere is counterfeited with wool, and the smell of fire can not smell.

More complicated is that national standards stipulate that as long as the amount of cashmere reaches more than 30%, it can be called cashmere sweater. A cashmere sweater with cashmere and wool blends. If you suspect that there is a problem with the content of cashmere, you can't identify it with fire.

After a special process modification, experienced engineers also carefully identify the scales of the fibers under the microscope to identify wool and cashmere. Cashmere comes from goats, but wool comes from sheep. Generally, cashmere is thinner than wool, and the distance between the scales is larger than that of wool. However, there are already crafts that can stretch the wool, not only making the wool as thin as cashmere, but also the spacing of the scales being enlarged, very similar to cashmere.

There are also identification methods that rely on hand touch, but with the help of powerful techniques and softeners, it is not a problem to make cheap fibers feel like cashmere.

a lot of fake cashmere fiber

When the reporter asked the three upstream enterprises in Hebei and Guangdong whether there were materials for imitation cashmere sweaters, the other party gave a different solution.

A wool manager in Guangdong said that as long as the wool blending line with a cashmere content of 3%-5% is used, the knitted sweater can have the texture of a cashmere sweater. The pure cashmere of this wool line sells for six or seven hundred yuan per kilogram, and this blended yarn costs only 100 yuan per kilogram.

A fluffy company in Hebei introduced the mercerizing process. After this process, the wool can have a cashmere-like feel and a silky luster. The business manager said that two kinds of "silk cashmere" can be provided, one is called "Silking True Sanqi", the composition is 30% wool and 70% acrylic, 65 yuan / kg; one is called "silk fake three seven", the composition is 100% acrylic, 40 yuan / kg.

If you want to be cheaper, you can also use 100% worsted acrylic, as long as 30 yuan / kg. The business manager reminded that the price is cheaper and the effect of the imitation will certainly be worse. Customers can choose the yarn according to their product positioning.

The third company recommended lamb cashmere. Although the national standard stipulates that only cashmere can be called cashmere, there are also products called cashmere in the industry. According to the representative, lamb cashmere is a blend of 85% sheep lamb and 15% nylon, 100 yuan / kg. He said that the "cashmere sweater" so woven must undergo a finishing process to achieve the texture of the cashmere sweater.

Cashmere detection method needs to be improved

Production and textile production technology are becoming more and more sophisticated, and the identification of cashmere products has become a difficult problem in the world.

In May 2011, the 5th International Cashmere Testing Technology Seminar was held in Tongxiang, Zhejiang. More than 100 domestic and foreign cashmere experts spent two days discussing the quality of cashmere.

The results of the discussion were unexpected. Experts engaged in cashmere testing for a decade or two said that some cashmere products are still difficult to distinguish. This aspect is the change of cashmere fiber itself. Really cashmere does not have the typical characteristics of “truth”; on the other hand, it is because more and more adulteration, fraud, etc., fake cashmere is more and more like Really.

Carl Speyhouse, president of the International Association of Cashmere and Camel Manufacturers (CCMI), said at the meeting that blind hybrid introduction of hybrids has made Chinese cashmere fibers thicker and changed the traditional appearance of cashmere. . There are also a variety of non-Chinese cashmere fiber imports, which makes the identification test more and more difficult. He concluded that the yak fiber, the Chinese soil sheep wool, the modified wool, the goat fiber of the non-velvet goat, and the blind hybrid introduction have become the five major factors that make cashmere true and false.

Even professional testers, if they have not been exposed to a change in real cashmere or a new fake cashmere sample, it is difficult to detect the true and false. Although cashmere testing is a technology, it relies heavily on experience. This undoubtedly increases its difficulty.